This is my favourite Sangiovese right now. It is produced by Di Majo Norante which is a winery in Molise in the Center South of Italy. Those of you who have read this blog before know that I have mentioned several of their other wines. Wines from this region are of high quality and fairly inexpensive in the British Columbia market. So no wonder I love them.
Sangiovese is the most commonly planted red grape varietal in Italy. There is great variation in climate from North to South Italy so most grapes only do well in certain regions. Sangiovese is a more adaptable variety and so can thrive in different climates. It is most commonly known as the grape of Tuscany being predominant in Chianti and many Super Tuscans.
Molise is quite a bit farther south and here the wine takes on a lushness not typical in an entry level wine from Tuscany. On Tuesday at Zambris where I work as a Sommelier we are featuring this and four other wines from Molise and the neighboring region of Abruzzo. Our guest for this evening will be Carmen d’ Onofrio Jr. who owns Stile wine company that imports this and many other fantastic Italian Wines.
Carmen’s father came from Molise and his mother came from Abruzzo. They immigrated to Canada as many other southern Italians did to find a better life. Stile wines was one of the first wine agencies in British Columbia to recognize the quality and value of wines from the south of Italy. In fact the two wineries represented at our dinner, Di Majo Norante and Cantina Tollo from Abruzzo were the first two wineries represented by Stile. And they are still represented twenty four years later!
You can buy this Sangiovese at many of the Government Liquor Stores in Victoria. I buy mine at Fort and Foul Bay. It sells for $13,99 before tax.
This is a painting called The Red Cedar by Emily Carr, (1871-1945). A print of it hangs on the wall of our home/studio/workshop in Victoria B.C. I love this painting for its immense energy. You can feel the life force not just flowing but rushing through the forest. Carr was a painter who lived in Victoria most of her life and was very influenced by the landscape and indigenous people of Vancouver Island.
My wife Dita was born in Amsterdam but moved to Vancouver when she was six. When we travel to the Netherlands I really see the Dutch side of her aesthetic. At home, when she is working on her creations, I realize how influenced she is by the West Coast. The heart of her work is Red Cedar and that is no accident. As an artist/woodworker she could choose to work with any wood but she loves cedar. This is fortunate as Vancouver Island is home to the most beautiful cedar in the world.
I love our business for many reasons but one of the main ones is I love the smell of cedar. When she is working on a project it permeates my whole house. She buys rough clear cedar from the mill and her first step is to run it through the planer so that it can be transformed into one of her elegant creations. Sometimes it is hard to imagine that the furniture she creates actually comes from a tree. It is anything but rustic!
Our environmental philosophy is simple. Material such as cedar should be ideally used in quality projects. It should never be wasted on cheap furniture or products that will find their way to the landfill in a short period of time. The mill we buy from is FSC certified meaning the wood is harvested in a very ecologically sensitive way. We create products that are meant to last, built with joinery and stained for the out of doors. Yet wood is an organic product and will naturally age.
Dita went for a motorcycle ride to Port Alberni last week and came blown away by a trip to The Whaling Sculpture on display in a building at Victoria Quay. We had seen it before passing through on our way to Tofino but that this trip she really took the time to appreciate it.
It is made with both red and yellow cedar and is actually a replica of a historical structure showing whalers pursuing a grey whale which is considered a gift from the creator by the Nootka People. This sculpture is a historical replica of another one which was likely made to honor or give thanks for the creators gifts.
There is an aliveness in this that I also see in Emily Carr’s work, an acknowledgement of the energy in everything from trees to whales to human beings. And a desire to use these materials for some greater good. Next time you are driving to Tofino, spend some time at the Whale Sculpture in Port Alberni.
Well it is true that I PROBABLY have not tasted every Pinot Grigio available in Victoria. But I am sure I have tasted every Italian Pinot Grigio around as in my job as Sommelier at Zambris restaurant this is a wine I am frequently asked to taste. This Pinot Grigio from di Lenardo vineyards is a wine I have had on my list for over five years and there is only one reason for this. It is the best. Not just the best at the price, which is pretty reasonable at around $20.00 but the best I have tasted at any price.
This wine is made in Friuli which is a small region in the north east of Italy known for the quality of their white wines. In fact, I often tell my customers to buy any wine they see from Friuli as they really don’t make bad or even mediocre wines.
As you can see it is a land of rolling hills, which premium conditions for the making of good quality white wines. They do make some very nice reds but it is the white wines they are famous for. The head of this winery is Massimo di Lenardo and the family have been in the business of making quality wine for over 100 years.
While it is true that we do make very good Pinot Grigio (or Gris as it is often referred to) here in B.C., I have a strong preference for the Italian style which is a little leaner and more acidic. But what I love about the di Lenardo wine is it’s weightiness which you don’t always find in other Italian Pinot Grigios. I had it with a lemon thyme chicken sitting in my garden on a sunny day. Perfection!
This wine is available at many of the government liquor stores. I usually buy mine at Fort and Foul Bay.
I don’t ride a bike in Victoria but when in Holland I do as the Dutch do and bike everywhere. Note the flat terrain and the big comfortable seat on my Dutch bike. Note, too the long pathway with no cars in sight. Holland is the safest place in the world for cyclists and the only place you can persuade me to participate in this dangerous sport.
The Dutch love bikes and they love art. Nowhere is this more in evidence than at the Kroller Muller Museum which is located in the middle of the Hoge Veluwe Park a six thousand hectare park located in Ottherio, Netherlands. We drove to the park but left our car at the entrance and biked in using the free “white bikes” provided.
In 1936 Helene Muller Kroller, an avid art collector left her entire collection to the state of Netherlands. She was one of the first to recognize the genius of Vincent Van Gogh and this museum houses one of the second largest collections of Van Gogh in the world. The Museum was designed by Belgian architect Henry van de Velde and opened in 1938. Its modernist design somehow seems to fit in its natural surroundings.
This museum is home to an amazing sculpture garden on its grounds. This is completely free and open to the public year round. My favourite was a structure by Gerrit Rietveld which is a pavilion that crossed the boundary into sculpture.
The other sculptures range from very modern to more transitional but they all reflect the Dutch eye for beauty and are placed in the garden in ways that both please and surprise.
Yet what is most amazing is how I felt here. After a vigorous bike ride through the park and then encountering such interesting sculptures on the walk up to the museum itself, I was much more relaxed and open than I usually am in a trip to a museum. Art, architecture and nature, what a fantastic combination.
This is where I had lunch yesterday. If you didn’t know better you would think you were in Napa Valley. It is not just the vista of the vineyard, but it is the rural feeling all around you combined with the sophistication of world class food and amazing wine. This is the restaurant at Unsworth Vineyards in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island.
Those of you who follow this blog may have detected a certain bias that I have for Old World Wines. This is true because for me, Italian wines provide the best value and also are the best wines for the food at Zambris, a classically inspired Italian restaurant in Victoria B.C. where I am the Sommelier. I have to admit a prejudice for wines that are produced from vineyards that may have been in operation for over six hundred years. Both the conditions and the culture seem to dictate a better class of wine.
Last summer my boss, who oddly enough is French, (from France!), came back from a visit to Unsworth vineyards raving about their Rose. Now given that he and I share the same bias for European wines this made me really sit up and take notice. I was looking for a Rose since I was unable to find an Italian Rose I liked. He felt that the Unsworth Rose was very close to those he loves from France. This was recommendation enough for me to bring it on my list for the summer..
I do really like this Rose. But yesterday at lunch in the vineyard where it is made, paired with some really exquisite small plates, I absolutely loved it!. We are all creatures of our senses. And I don’t just mean our palates. Sitting at their restaurant, looking out over their vineyard, hearing the chickens that were scattered through the yard and smelling the fresh clean air of the Cowichan Valley gave an added dimension to my food and wine experience.
This wine will be back on my list this summer so of course I want you to come to Zambri’s and drink it. But if you are in the Cowichan Valley don’t miss a chance to experience this and their other beautiful wines in the fantastic restaurant at Unsworth Vineyards. Oh yes, I believe you can purchase the wine at Cook St. Wines but if you go on their website they will let you know where else it is available on Vancouver Island and the lower mainland. A great value at under $20.00 a bottle.
My wife Dita oves animals. In our yard she has created a sanctuary for dogs, fish and fowl. Although I can bond with our dog Joopy and appreciate the beauty of birds and fish, she takes it to a deeper level. Her latest design is an Owl House. I always know something is in the works when a certain word such as “Owl” and certain images pop up all around our house. The design process began, I suppose, with a series of bird houses that she designed and built as products for our company, Victoria Wood Studio.
In this photo you can just barely see one of our birdhouses installed in our back yard. Inside we have baby chickadees!. The camouflage around this house was created from the bones of a Eucalyptus that had died. Rather than cut it down Dita planted vines to grow on it creating a natural sculpture and the perfect safe hiding place for baby birds.
How did we get from this to Owl houses you might ask? Well, I know she has a passion for beauty and majesty and Owls are both. I think the idea of bringing more of these amazing creatures into an urban setting was what first intrigued her. Also,we both share a dislike of the poisons that are deemed to be necessary to control the rat population in our neighborhood. The prey/predator relationship means more Owls would reduce the rat population naturally. Finally, Dita loves the place where urban and rural connect, where the rusticity of nature meets the sophistication of the city and both are transformed in the process.
Our Owl house bears no real resemblance to other owls houses out there. To start with these boxes are made with joinery and designed in a modern style stained with an environmental product to increase it longevity. The bark is added to contrast with the sleek urban look. It also gives the baby owls something to grip as they climb in and out of the box. And what other owl house has its own deck? Of course this functions as a perch but it is also part of the look.
We recently visited the Raptor Sanctuary in Duncan B.C. where we received the stamp of approval from the experts there for her design. So, not only is it beautiful but it should actually attract owls.
Stay tuned on this page for the installation of this Owl house. Of course this in itself will be challenging as Owls in an urban setting should be up as high as possible. Right now we are talking about a twenty five foot pole! Did I mention Dita also loves challenges and complicated projects?
Click on the link below to see the beautiful baby owls we hope to have in our owl nest box one day.
Last week Zambris hosted a wine dinner featuring a Dolcetto from Elio Altare in Piemonte.
This grape, (Dolcetto), has long been one of my favourites and one that is often ignored as people tend to think of the more famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines of Piemonte. Yet nothing can compare to the elegance and balance of a good quality Dolcetto. And while most Barolo and Barbaresco wines need to age, this 2012 Dolcetto is drinking beautifully right now. Although it is not a weighty wine our Chef, Peter Zambri, served it with two kinds of lamb, one in a very rich sauce and it stood up to these extracted flavours beautifully.
At 29.99 per bottle it is not the least expensive wine I have recommended here. What this price represents, though, is a historic struggle, family feud and years of experimentation in modern winemaking techniques in a region very steeped in tradition. As a young man, Elio Altare travelled to Burgundy to investigate winemaking techniques there. He was so impressed that he came back and immediately began to implement them, literally taking a chainsaw to the Botte used in fermenting Barolo. He felt these older large barrels were not the best vessel for this purpose and wanted to replace them with smaller, newer, french oak barrels. This outraged his father who disowned him. Yet Altare went on the lead a modernist revolution in the region, implementing new techniques and buying back his family lands bit by bit.
What the fuss was all about is very well portrayed in a new documentary just released called The Barolo Boys.
The Altare wines represent all those years of experimentation and struggle. Nowadays most producers use a blend of modern and traditional techniques. But without the sacrifice of winemakers like Altare, fantastic wines like the Dolcetto would not exist. When we question the price of a wine, or any unique product for that matter, we always need to think of the years of hard work that go into that product, often requiring a vast outlay of resources with little or no immediate compensation.
The only downside of this wine is that as far as I can tell it is not available on the shelves anywhere locally. You can order it by the case from any liquor store and the code is 771139. It’s worth it!
I love my laundry rack. It makes me want to do laundry. It is so beautiful to look at and yet holds an entire large load so it saves me money every time I use it. For years I wanted to hang my laundry outside but I really hated the ugly laundry racks that were available. When my wife Dita and I went to the Netherlands in 2011 we visited the Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen. This museum is a recreation of an old seaside village. There, among other artifacts, I spotted this beautiful old laundry rack.
When we got home Dita began to design and she built me a laundry rack drawing on some of the same design details but with a very west coast look. Dita is a designer/builder who was born in Amsterdam but moved to Vancouver when she was six.
Our laundry rack is made of cedar, not a wood commonly found in Europe. But she uses oak dowels for strength and contrast. It is unfinished while the Dutch rack is painted. And it is taller and narrower, an elegant look favored by Dita. But it is very Dutch!
I love the combination of form and function in Dutch art. The Zuiderzee Museum exists on one hand, to represent or recreate a way of life now gone. But throughout the village they display modern art and commentary to take you into the realm of abstraction. When we were there in 2011 they had a show called From craftsmanship to abstraction design route. Throughout the museum they would juxtapose modern art interpretations of traditional materials next to artifacts. Or they would present artifacts in such a way to be seen as art. A fascinating way to view history and a way of making Abstract Art feel more accessible.
Just recently they installed a very interesting permanent exhibition called Monument by the British artist Clare Twomey. This piece is made up of hundreds of shards of household crockery and antique ceramic tiles cascading in a monumental way. Broken crockery seems to contradict the purpose of a museum which is to preserve artifacts for future generations. This work plays with the idea that everyday items can be elevated to museum status. But it is also a comment on our over consumption of consumer goods. The tiles come from the sizable tile collection of the Zuiderzee museum, the “D” collection rejected and yet now put to good use as Art!